After the Christmas Eve

1.
There was an incessant downpour all through the Christmas day. The day turned chilly and the breeze blew off the umbrellas from passers-by. All I could do was to just hold on to the handle of my fragile black "made in China" umbrella as I was constantly blown off the course by the winds that the Tagus carried.

One unusual thing about Lisbon is that it announces elevators among its modes of public transport. I was heading to one of them, Elevador Santa Justa. This 45 meter tall iron structure was built in 1902 in the neo-gothic style and connects the streets of the Baixa to the Largo Carmo area. I did not think much of the architecture. But I had to appreciate it for its sheer height. All the more after finding out that the lift was closed for the day. So i climbed all the way up, panting,clutching my sides, my face frozen, as raindrops like pinpricks fell. The view in offer was however worth the effort. So, even with the rain like a curtain caught in wind, blocked my view. The Baixa neighbourhood, the Lisbon castle and the Rossio square lay around and below in a spectacular spread.The spectre of the Igreja do Carmo (Carmo church) destroyed in the 1755 earthquake looms in the background. Its roofs opening out into the sky, gaping in horror at the heavens' wrath. A sombre monument to destruction.

2

Lo! Cintra's glorious Eden intervenes
In variegated maze of mount and glen.
Ah me! what hand can pencil guide, or pen,
To follow half on which the eye dilates
- Lord Byron

Bless the sun for shining on Sintra this day. For, I was not prepared to take in another days of shivering long walks.So, the day after Christmas i took my train to the famed Sintra.Sintra lies about half an hour off to Lisbon towards its North- West and is one of the most known tourist destination from Portugal. I spend my day wandering in Leisure through its historical centre, among the towers of the Castelo dos Mouros and through the corridors of the Pena palace.

The Castelo dos Mouros (Moorish Castle) is by far the most spectacular structure I have encountered in Portugal.Not many would agree with me there. The country is strewn with vestiges of Manueline architecture. But the sumptuous and heavy Manueline style seems a bit overdone to me.The Castelo dos Mouros is a 9th century structure. Subject to attacks and occupations over the centuries, the castle was renovated in 1830 during the reign of King Ferdinand well in tune with the romantic spirit of the times. It has two walled segments and granite steps that winds to the top of the towers.But more than its architecture, it is its location that defines the castle. From the top of the tower, the gaze stretches over the narrow streets and yellow houses of Sintra, the lush green beyond, with the pathways that snakes out of the town and onto the Atlantic blue up to where the ocean meets the horizon. Its a message of power conveyed in poetry.The Moorish castle at present offers a view that was unintended at the time of its construction, the 19th century Palacio Nacional da Pena. The Palace is a curious mixture of arches and domes ornate windows bringing into mind the Manueline ones.Its rooms are a loud proclamation of luxury. However it is not much in my system to appreciate, the heavy wooden furniture or the silver and gold goblets. I am a claustrophobic being. And once I was inside the long rooms and corridors of the palace, all I wanted to was to get out. However viewed from downhill, in its entirety, the Palace of Pena is a lovely sight.It is painted red and yellow and blue into a fairy tale perfection.

Over the past two days, the soles of my feet were troubling me a lot! I suppose it has to do with my amazing sense of direction, which made me walk over four hours on Christmas night finding my way back to the hostel. So i wound up the the little excursion earlier than I would have otherwise. But not before wandering into the Cafe a Piriquita. The crispy, light crust of the cream filled Traverssario sprinkled with white powdered cane sugar over a cup of strong unsweetened coffee..oh sweet dear life!