04 April 2011

Padova II: 'rEsistere'

Rains are frequent in Ferrara. After brief intervals of sunlight and warmth, they invariably claim the town back, gentle, yet persistent. On Monday, I walked to my early morning class accompanied by a rain- drenched wind. It was good bye to a weekend, which commenced rather early and stretched on lazily over four sunny days.

Padova was a spontaneous decision. the city lies an hour by train from Ferrara, en-route Venice. Along that one hour, the flat country transforms as solitary hillocks rise here and there as sudden surprises upon the landscape.

We spent the morning wandering among the ruins of the Roman arena, and the many side streets that branches out from the Piazza Cavour, lined on either sides by an assortment of medieval and modern structures. In front of the famed Cafe Pedrocchi, a small group wearing large crosses across their chests stood holding hand written placards. An old man with long white beard, painstakingly explained to Dani why it was imperative to stop sinning!,if possible then and there.

By afternoon the streets and squares began to fill in. It was much like the weekends in Ferrara, when the whole town seems to be outside their homes, fairs pop up and musicians perform with collection tins open in front of them, at every street corner.

But today it appeared that rather an unusual number of performances were going on in the city streets. At the Piazza della Frutta a woman was painting on a long banner spread on the floor. There was singing at a corner. A handsome young man was giving a solo- act at the opposite end his expressions mirrored on the Faces of the spectators. Eventually Dani figured out that the performances were part of a protest.

Ever since Berlusconi came to power, the cultural policy of Italy is going through major alterations.The 2011 Budget Law proposed a cut of about 200 million euros in Italy's single arts fund. The protests sparked by the proposed cuts resulted in clashes on the streets of Milan between police and the protestors. Italy's culture minister, Giuliano Urbani has proposed to privatise even the Colosseum of Rome and the ruins of Pompei in the next one year. To add insult to the injuries, Berlusconi, reportedly spent 1.8 million euros from state funds to further the career of a Bulgarian actress, Michelle Bonev, even as the artists home are struggling to cope with the mounting pressure.

By late afternoon the artists had gathered at the Piazza della Signori. Plaques around their necks identified them as "Lavoratori dello Spettacolo"(Entertainment Labourers). There they sang and spoke often appealing to the crowd to participate in the sloganeering. They had taken to the streets that Sunday, despite a sudden U- turn by the ministry in the proposed fund cuts aimed at averting another tense situation. The Piazza is a typical Ventian public square, with an impressive tower gate way with an astronomical clock and flanked by the Bishop's palace and cathedral. Around the square, are bars and coffee shops with chairs set out in the open.

The crowd ushered in by the sunny day and captured by the spectacle stood watching as the artists raised an orange cloth tent on the flag staff and gathered under it. Loosening the cords, they allowed themselves to be captured within. Then they dramatically rose in unison tearing the cloth with their fists raised in protest. The energetic sloganeering continued as the crowd applauded in earnest.

The enthusiasm of the crowd amazed me. It appeared that each person out on the square that day was in deep agreement with the artists' cause.Parents ushered kids to join the artists. Yet, support grows steadily, especially in these Northern provinces, for Berlusconi and his government. And the prodigal Prime Minister acts on his crazy whims, throwing the nation further off balance with each passing day.

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