The 11:30 shots

(Lisboa)

So I walk back to my hostel on the Christmas Eve. I stop for a moment at the Praça do Comércio. The square is flanked by two symmetrical buildings that angles out to the Tagus in an open- armed embrace. To the centre of the square is the equestrian statue of King José I.

At 9:30, on the 1st of November, 1755, Lisbon was hit by a huge earth quake. Known hence as the ‘Great Lisbon Earthquake’ it changed the face of the city in about ten minutes. Soon after the earthquake fires broke out. And what was once the royal palace was now rubble and ash. It was on these ruins that the Praça do Comércio was built, as conceived by the architect Eugénio dos Santos and as encompassed within the rebuilding efforts of the prime Minister of José I, Marquis de Pombal


Tonight the square is illuminated in anticipation of Christmas. In fact my whole walkway is lit by the gold and silver bulbs that hangs overhead like huge luminous water drops. But like the roads, the Praça is also deserted. The silence is slowly getting on to me. I think of the Christmases back home and all I want is to get back to some noise.

So I walk back to the hostel for my Christmas dinner.I know I am missing home...

Once inside the 'yes' hostel, the mood changes. This is undoubtedly the best hostel experience I have had. The place is as warm as the staff here is. I eat and drink my way through the courses of my Christmas dinner. I have at my table republicans and democrats. The venerable lady next to me is in search of the perfect place to write her book. Shirley talks about how her Sri Lankan origins could well be traced back to Portugal. I walk in the drizzle with Antonio and Stephanie and Johny to the Rossio square and wonder aloud why Lisbon chose to remain indoors.

And strangers gather around the counter with their shot glasses to drain it in a single moment of unison. I know there is something about the “jingle bells”. But the clang of our shot glasses as we slam them back to the counter is just as good as the carol ever gets!