18 August 2008

The Alexandrian Diary 5: Ahmed al Hind

Over twenty years ago there was in Alexandria a man called Ahmed. Ahmed used to roam around the city on his motorbike. Attached to his bike was a music system with huge speakers and Hindi film music streamed out from them constantly. In the movie halls showing Hindi movies, Ahmed would sing along and dance with the songs; his steps in synchrony with those on the screen. People called him Ahmed al- Hind.

Ehab spoke with nostalgia of Ahmed and the days when there were seven movie halls devoted to Bollywood movies. (Now there are only two). Ehab works with the Supreme Council of Antiquities and is a part of our project. Father of three, he is a jovial man in his late thirties, with a ready smile. Ehab is a great fan of Amitabh Bachan and Hindi film music. So are many of his generation that I have come across.

From my day one in Alexandria I have met people, who have asked me whether I am from al- Hind. My Malayali nationalism as Neha has often pointed out is far too strong to be pleased for being included in the ‘Indian’/ Hindi rubric. But their next sentence invariably is “Amitabh Bachchan?” Well I can’t argue there. It is not Shatrukhnan Sinha after all. My ready recognition of Amitabh Bachchan brings about an instant change. It is the warmth of meeting some one from a long time ago.

I have also met a few younger people who are the fans of current bollywood. Then, that is more alien to me. At least, there is no shared nostalgia. Ri-ahm the charming ticket collector at the National Museum of Alexandria said she loved Indians and she loved Kareena Kapur and Shahrukh Khan. Shahrukh Khan is the hot favourite. (why oh why?!!!) In Cairo I went to a small souvenir shop in the medieval market of Khan el- Khalili. Sherif the salesman shook hands with me and said. “I like you; I am Shahrukh Khan”. I have found my oasis in the desert, haven’t I??

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